Type | Art Fabric |
---|---|
Material | silk, cotton, gold, silver |
Place of origin | Lampung, Indonesia [1] [2] [3] [4] |
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Tapis ( Surat Ulu: ꤳꤶꥇꤼ꥓; Indonesian: kain tapis or simply tapis) is a traditional Tenun style and also refers to resulting cloth that originated from Lampung, Indonesia. [5] [6] [7] [8] It consists of a striped, naturally-coloured cloth embroidered with warped and couched gold thread. Traditionally using floral motifs, it has numerous variations. It is generally worn ceremonially, although it can be used as a decoration. It is considered one of the symbols of Lampung and Lampungese. [9]
Tapis is generally made by Lampungese women. It consists of a woven, naturally coloured fabric with warped gold and silk embroidery. [10] [11] The gold thread, shaped in stripes, chevrons, and checks, contrasts the colours of the fabric. [10] [11] Tapis can also be decorated with beads, mica chips, or old colonial coins. [10] [12] [13]
The gold embroidery is affixed using couching techniques, minimalizing waste. [14] The gold thread is attached in sections, then couched with a different, less expensive, thread at turns. This ensures that none of the gold thread is used in a non-visible area. [14] [15]
Traditionally, tapis has floral motifs. However, modern tapis may also be based on the weaver's own design and include non-floral motifs, such as Arabic calligraphy. [13] Other designs may include snakes, ships, and mythical creatures. [11] Some tapis, called tapis tua (old tapis), are covered entirely in golden embroidery. [16]
Although generally produced by Lampungese home industries, tapis is also produced in other areas, including Kendal, Central Java [10] and Pisang Island. [17]
Traditionally, tapis is worn as a sarong for weddings, Eid ul-Fitr celebrations, and welcoming ceremonies. However, tapis can also be used as a wall decoration. [13] When worn, it forms a cylinder around the wearer's legs. [18]
Tapis has come to be seen as a symbol of Lampung. [10] Some people describes tapis as having "exceptional beauty and sophistication", [19] while some describes viewing tapis as "like seeing countless possibilities in art and life portrayed in cloth". [15]
The price of tapis reflects its age. Generally, the older a tapis the more it costs. Antique tapis are also collectors items, collected by both Indonesians and foreigners. [10]