A satin weave is a type of
fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back; it is not durable, as it tends to snag. It is one of three fundamental types of textile
weaves alongside
plain weave and
twill weave.
The satin weave is characterised by four or more fill or
weft yarns floating over a
warp yarn, and four warp yarns floating over a single weft yarn. Floats are missed interfacings, for example where the warp yarn lies on top of the weft in a warp-faced satin. These floats explain the high lustre and even sheen, as unlike in other weaves, light is not scattered as much when hitting the fibres, resulting in a stronger reflection. Satin is usually a warp-faced weaving technique in which warp yarns are "floated" over weft yarns, although there are also weft-faced satins.[1] If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using
filament fibres such as
silk,
polyester or
nylon, the corresponding fabric is termed a 'satin', although some definitions insist that a satin fabric is only made from silk.[2] If the yarns used are
short-staple yarns such as
cotton, the fabric formed is considered a
sateen.
Many variations can be made of the basic satin weave, including a granite weave and a check weave.
Satin was originally made solely of
silk, which, for much of history, was produced and found mainly in
China.[3] In ancient[clarify] China, there were various forms of satin fabrics which came under several names, such as duan (缎), zhusi (紵丝), ling (绫), jin (锦), wusi (五丝) and basi (八丝).[4] Chinese satin, in its original form, was supposed to be a five- or six-end warp satin.[4] The six-end warp satin weave was mostly likely a derivative of the six-end warp twill weave during the
Tang and
Northern Song dynasty periods.[4]
Europe
Silk satin was introduced to Europe during the 12th century.[citation needed] As an imported fabric, it was considerably expensive, and was worn only by the upper classes.
Etymology
The word "satin" derives its origin from the Chinese port city of
Quanzhou (泉州),[4] which was known as Zayton in Europe and Arab countries during the
Yuan dynasty (13th–14th century).[5] During that period, Quanzhou was visited by
Arab merchants and by
Europeans.[5][6] The Arabs referred to silk satin imported from Quanzhou as zaituni.[5] During the latter part of the Middle Ages, Quanzhou was a major shipping port of silk, using the
Maritime Silk Road to reach Europe. It was mostly used in the
Arab world.
Types of satin weave
Satin-weave fabrics are more flexible, with better draping characteristics than plain weaves. In a satin weave, the fill yarn passes over multiple warp yarns before interlacing under one warp yarn. Common satin weaves are:[7]
4-harness satin weave (4HS), also called
crowfoot satin, in which the fill yarn passes over three warp yarns and under one warp yarn. It is more pliable than a plain weave.
5-harness satin weave (5HS); the fill yarn passes over four warp yarns and then under one warp yarn.
8-harness satin weave (8HS), in which the fill yarn passes over seven warp yarns and then under one warp yarn, is the most pliable satin weave.
Baronet or baronette – has a cotton back and a rayon or silk front, similar to
georgette.[10]
Charmeuse – is a lightweight, draping satin-weave fabric with a dull reverse.[11]
Cuttanee – fine heavy and stout silk and cotton satin
Double face(d) – satin is woven with a glossy surface on both sides. It is possible for both sides to have a different pattern, albeit using the same colours.[12]
Duchess(e) satin – is a particularly luxurious, heavy, stiff satin.[12]
Polysatin or poly-satin – is an abbreviated term for polyester satin.
Slipper satin – is stiff and medium- to heavy-weight fabric.[16]
Sultan – is a
worsted fabric with a satin face.[13]
Surf satin – was a 1910s American trademark for a
taffeta fabric used for
swimsuits.[17]
Uses for satin
Because of the different ways the weave is employed, satin has a range of functions from interior décor to fashion.
Dresses: Satin's drape and shiny texture make it a favorite for evening gowns and bridal gowns.
Upholstery: Satin was first used for ornamental furniture in Europe at the Palace of Versailles, and it is still used for pillow covers, chairs, and other forms of cushioned furniture today.
Bed sheets: Satin is frequently used for bed linens because of its flexible and silky texture.
Footwear: Satin is a popular fabric for shoe makers, from ballerina slippers to high heels.
Fashion accessories: Satin is commonly used for evening bags and clutches in the fashion industry.
Crafting: Satin in the form of ribbons are very common for crafting various products such as
rosette leis, corsage, and even decorative flowers.[18]
References
^Emery, Irene (1994). The Primary Structures of Fabrics. Washington, D. C. Thames and Hudson. p. 137.
ISBN978-0-500-28802-3.