From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
This is a list of
Austrian mountaineers. On 5 of the 14
Eight-thousanders Austrians have made the first ascent, more than any other nation can claim. Out of the total of 9
Austrian mountaineers who made first ascents of
Eight-thousanders , 3 have been members of the
Edelweiss Club Salzburg , an association of mountaineers founded in
Salzburg in 1881
Eight-thousanders
Austrian
First Ascent
Hermann Buhl (1924–1957), first ascent solo and without oxygen of
Nanga Parbat (1953) on the
1953 German–Austrian Nanga Parbat expedition , first ascent of
Broad Peak (1957)
Kurt Diemberger (born 1932), first ascents of
Broad Peak (1957) and
Dhaulagiri (1960)
Fritz Moravec (1922–1997), first ascent of
Gasherbrum II together with
Josef Larch and
Hans Willenpart
Marcus Schmuck (1925–2005), first ascent of
Broad Peak (1957), initiator and leader of the OEAV Karakoram Expedition
Herbert Tichy (1912–1987), geologist, writer and mountaineer (first ascent of
Cho Oyu , together with Sepp Jöchler)
Fritz Wintersteller (1927–2018), first ascent of
Broad Peak (1957)
Other
Austrian mountaineers
Hansjörg Auer (1984–2019) Marmolada "Way of the Fish" free solo, Lupghar Sar West in the Karakoram-solo, Howse Peak with David Lama and Jess Roskelley
Peter Aufschnaiter (1899–1973), mountaineer and co-traveller of Heinrich Harrer (
Seven Years in Tibet )
Karl Blodig (1859–1956), mountaineer (first to climb all alpine mountains above 4000m)
Paul Grohmann (1838–1908), first ascent of the four highest
Dolomites
Peter Habeler (born 1942), first ascent of
Mount Everest without oxygen (together with
Reinhold Messner )
Heinrich Harrer (1912–2006), mountaineer (first ascent of the
Carstensz Pyramid and the
Eiger north face) and writer (
Seven Years in Tibet )
Conrad Kain (1883–1934), first ascent of
Mount Robson
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 1970), first woman to ascend all Eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen (2011)
Fritz Kasparek (1910–1954), many first ascents, including the
Eiger north face
Markus Kronthaler (1967–2006), Tyrolean mountaineer, ice climber
Moriz von Kuffner (1854–1939) first descent of the Mittellegi Ridge on the
Eiger & first ascent of the Arête Kuffner of
Mont Maudit
David Lama (1990–2019) Cerro Torre free climb of the compressor route,
Lunag Ri solo climb, Howse Peak climbed but party lost in descent
Paul Preuss (1886–1913), premier rock climber of his time
Ludwig Purtscheller (1849–1900), first ascent of
Kilimanjaro in 1889
Christian Stangl (born 1966), speed climber
See also