Huangjiu (
Chinese: 黃酒;
lit. 'yellow wine') is a type of Chinese
rice wine most popular in the
Jiangnan area. Huangjiu is brewed by mixing steamed
grains including
rice,
glutinous rice or
millet with qū as starter culture, followed by
saccharification and
fermentation at around 13–18 °C (55–64 °F) for fortnights. Its alcohol content is typically 8% to 20%.
Huangjiu is usually
pasteurized,
aged, and filtered before its final bottling for sale to consumers. The maturation process can be complicated but important for the development of the layers of flavours and fragrance. A few brands of premium grade huangjiu could have been aged for up to 20 years. Although as huangjiu's name may suggest, its colour is typically light yellow and orange, but it can in fact range from clear to brown. Many famous huangjiu brands promote the quality of water used in brewing[1][2] in their advertising, and some consider it to be the most important ingredient.[3]
Huangjiu is commonly consumed warm, as the richness from the flavour compounds are released better when warm. In summer, it is popular to drink sweet huangjiu chilled or on ice. Liaojiu (料酒) is a type of huangjiu used in cooking, an example of this being the liaojiu-type of
Shaoxing rice wine. Major producers of huangjiu include
China and
Taiwan.[2]
History
Huangjiu in Chinese society had perhaps the same level of influence as
beer in the European societies throughout history. Archaeology has established that ancient Chinese people once brewed some form of alcohol similar to
beer in China, however with the invention of the brewing method utilising qu,huangjiu rapidly replaced the prototypic beer in ancient China and beer-like beverages fell out of fashion as the ancient Chinese drinkers preferred tastes of huangjiu. As beer was completely forgotten in China until the 19th century, when the Germans reintroduced a brewery in Qingdao which later became the producer of today's famous
Tsingtao beer, huangjiu has always been the nation's favourite type of brewed alcoholic beverage (whereas baijiu has been the nation's favourite spirit or liquor).
The earliest form of huangjiu was supposedly devised by
Du Kang during the reign of
Shaokang of the
Xia. Dukang was subsequently deified as the
Chinesegod of wine. His son Heita is sometimes said to have accidentally invented
Zhenjiang vinegar when his forgetfulness allowed a vat to spoil.[4]
Huangjiu is produced widely throughout China, in a variety of styles, which reflect the wine's sugar content, the starter/innoculent (or qu) used, and its production method.
Dryness/Sweetness
This is the formal classification for all Chinese wines. There are five categories: dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet, sweet, and extra-sweet.[5]
Dry (Gan, 乾): with sugar content no greater than 1%. This type of rice wine has the lowest fermentation temperature. An example of this kind is Yuanhongjiu (元紅酒, literally "
Champion's Red Wine"), a specialty of
Shaoxing, so-named because being successful in the imperial examination is a great cause for celebration and fame (red) and as well, traditionally the wine jars are painted red.
Semi-dry (Ban Gan, 半乾): with sugar content between 1% and 3%. This type of huangjiu can be stored for a long period of time and encompasses most of the varieties of huangjiu that are exported from China. An example of this variety is Jiafanjiu (加飯酒, literally "Added Rice Wine"), a variation on the Yuanhongjiu that involves adding more rice in fermentation. The jiafanjiu is traditionally used for ceremonies, such as child birth, engagement, and funerals.
Semi-sweet (Ban Tian, 半甜): with sugar content between 3% and 10%. The longer the semi-sweet huangjiu is stored, the darker its color becomes. This variety of huangjiu cannot be stored for long periods of time. An example of this kind is Shanniangjiu (善酿酒, literally "Best Made Wine"), a specialty of
Shaoxing which partly uses vintage Yuanhongjiu instead of water.
Sweet (Tian, 甜): with sugar content between 10% and 20%. An example of this variety is Feng Gang Jiu (封缸酒, literally "Conceal Earth Jar Wine"). In comparison to previous types of huangjiu, sweet huangjiu can be manufactured all year round when using traditional production methods.
Extra-sweet (Nong Tian, 浓甜): with sugar content equal or greater than 20%. An example of this variety is Xiang Xue Jiu (香雪酒, literally "Fragrant Snow Wine").
Starter/Inoculant
Xiaoqu (小曲 / 小麴;
pinyin: xiǎo qū, "small yeast"): Wines inoculated using rice cultured with Rhizopus, yeast, and other microorganisms. The mixture generates less heat, so they are mostly used in southern China.
Daqu (酒曲 / 酒麴;
pinyin: jiǔ qū, "alcohol yeast"): Wines inoculated using rice cultured with Aspergillus oryzae and yeast. Almost all popular alcoholic drinks in China belong to this type.
Hongqu (红曲 / 紅麴;
pinyin: hóng qū, "red yeast"): Wines that are flavoured and coloured with Monascus purpureus or other red rice molds of the genus Monascus.
Production methods
Tangfan (烫饭 / 燙飯;
pinyin: tàng fàn, "warm rice"): The
steamed rice used to make the wine is cooled in the open air until it is still relatively warm before processing.
Liangfan (凉饭 / 凉飯;
pinyin: liáng fàn, "cold rice"): The steamed rice used to make the wine is quenched with cold water before further processing. The unfiltered mash for this wine is sometimes eaten as a dessert or used as an inoculant for other Chinese wines.
Jiafan (加饭 or 喂饭;
pinyin: jiā fàn or wèi fàn, "fed rice"): Steamed rice is continuously fed into a fermenting mixture (up to three times), which produces a sweeter wine.
Fortified:
Baijiu is added to the fermenting mash, which increases the concentration of alcohol in the mash and halts the fermentation process. This leaves a significant quantity of unfermented sugars, thus producing an especially sweet tasting wine.
Types
Some of the most popular huangjiu include:
Mijiu (米酒; pinyin: mǐjiǔ) is the generic name for Chinese fermented
rice wine, similar to Japanese
sake. It is generally clear, and is used for both drinking and cooking. Mijiu intended for cooking is generally of lower grade and often contains 1.5%
salt. The alcohol content by volume of mijiu is typically 12–19.5%.
Fujian Nuomijiu (福建糯米酒; pinyin: Fújiàn nuòmǐ jiǔ): made by adding a long list of expensive Chinese medicinal herbs to
glutinous rice and a low alcohol distilled rice wine. The unique brewing technique uses another wine as raw material, instead of starting with water. The wine has an orange-red color. Alcohol content by volume: 18%.[6]
Jiafan jiu (加飯酒)
Huadiao jiu (花雕酒; pinyin: huādiāo jiǔ; lit. "flowery carving wine"), also known as nu'er hong (女兒紅; pinyin: nǚ'ér hóng, lit. "daughter red"): a variety of huangjiu that originates from
Shaoxing, in the eastern coastal province of
Zhejiang. It is made of
glutinous rice and wheat. This wine evolved from the Shaoxing tradition of burying nu'er hong underground when a daughter was born, and digging it up for the wedding banquet when the daughter was to be married. The containers would be decorated with bright colors as a wedding gift. To make the gift more appealing, people began to use pottery with flowery carvings and patterns. Huadiao jiu's alcohol content is 16% by volume.[7]
Shaoxing jiu (紹興酒; pinyin: Shàoxīng jiǔ) It is commonly used both for drinking and in Chinese cooking (as liaojiu, with added herbs and spices). The reddish color of these wines is imparted by
red yeast rice. One prominent producer of Shaoxing wine is Zhejiang Guyue Longshan Shaoxing Wine Co., Ltd. (古越龍山) of Shaoxing, Zhejiang.[8][9] It is not uncommon for some varieties of Shaoxing wine to be aged for 50 years or more.[10]
Honglu jiu (紅露酒; pinyin: hóng lù jiǔ; lit. "red wine") is produced in Taiwan, while Shaoxing wine is made in
Fujian Province. In the 1910s, three businessmen produced Chinese red rice wine aged longer than other manufacturers in Taiwan by using higher ratio of glutinous rice content. They branded their top and the second grade products as 老紅金雞, or literary Golden Rooster, and 老紅酒黃雞, or literary Yellow Rooster. After World War II, Yellow Rooster was renamed as Hong lu jiu.[11][12][13]
The three main ingredients of Chinese alcoholic beverages are the grain, water, and qu. Other ingredients may also be added to alter the color, taste, or medicinal properties of the final product.
The earliest grains domesticated in China were
millet in the north and
rice in the south. Both are still employed in production of alcohol. Modern production also employs
wheat,
barley,
sorghum, and
coixseed.
For huangjiu, the grains are de
germed and polished of their
bran. They are then soaked and acidified with the aid of lactobacillus or through the addition of
lactic acid into the soaking liquid. (Acidification is done to discourage the growth of other microbes on the grains, which can spoil the resulting liquor by creating undesired flavors in it or rendering it poisonous.) This process produces a taste and
mouth-feel distinct from other forms of
rice wine.
Water
Water hydrates the grains and enables
fermentation. The
pH and mineral content of the water also contribute to the flavor and quality of the drink. Many regions are famous not only for their alcoholic beverages but also for the flavor and quality of their water sources. Emphasis is placed on gathering the cleanest water directly from springs or streams or from the center of lakes, where the water has been exposed to the least amount of pollutants. Water should be low in
iron and
sodium, with a higher proportion of
magnesium and
calcium ions as part of its total mineral content.
The
fermentation starter, known in Chinese as Jiuqu or simply as Qu, is usually a dried cake of flour cultured with various
molds,
yeasts and
bacteria. In the production of huangjiu it is crushed and added to inoculate the cereal substrate to initiate fermentation into liquor. The various molds and filamentous yeasts found in Qu exude enzymes that digest the substrate into sugars that are in turn, fermented into alcohol by other yeasts and bacteria.[14]
There are three main types of starters:
Xiaoqu (小曲 / 小麴) or Small Starter, a small cake (10-100g) of rice flour (or if wheat flour, termed Maiqu), cultured with microbes and incubated for a short period at relatively cool temperatures. The dominant starter for huangjiu.[14]
Daqu (大曲 / 大麴) or Large Starter, a large cake (1–5 kg) of wheat, wheat and pea, or barley and wheat flour, cultured with microbes and incubated for a longer period at relatively high temperatures. The dominant starter for Baijiu, but often used in huangjiu in combination with Xiaoqu. Its use will significantly alter the organoleptic qualities of the ensuing wine.[15]
Hongqu (红曲 / 紅麴) or Red Starter, are dried, mold-encrusted rice grains cultured with microbes, The dominant mold, Monascus purpureus, creates a red pigment which colours the ensuing liquor in shades or red to purple. Often used in conjunction with Xiaoqu to make red cereal wines.[16]
Preparation
Seed mash
Prior to the actual brewing of the liquor, another small batch of grain is prepared to produce the "seed mash" (酒母, jiǔmǔ). Seed mash is produced by soaking and acidifying glutinous rice and other grains, then steaming them on frames or screens for several minutes. This cooks the grains and converts their starch into a
gelatinized form that is more easily utilized by the starter culture. The inoculation temperature of the steamed grains is tightly controlled as it alters the flavor character. This is usually done when the grain has been doused with cold water and cooled to between 23 and 28 °C, which is considered the optimal initial fermentation temperature for the seed mash.
After the little starter is added, it is allowed around two days to begin the
saccharification, acidification, and
fermentation of the grains. Inoculation with the first starter partially liquifies the steamed grains, which is the signal to add the big starter as well as more water to form a thick
slurry. This slurry is carefully stirred by a brewmaster to aerate and maintain an optimal level of oxygen and
carbon dioxide in the mixture, as well as to maintain an even temperature throughout the fermenting mass. The slurry is periodically stirred over the course of a week. The stirred slurry is then allowed to go through a more thorough fermentation for approximately one month, following which the
pH drops to around 3.4 and the alcohol content rises to approximately 15%. This is the seed mash that will be used to brew the main mash.
Main mash
More soaked and acidified rice is prepared in the same fashion as in the seed mash. The grain is then either cooled with cold water or left out on a flat surface, depending on the type of huangjiu being produced, as the cooling method alters the flavor and mouth-feel of the resulting drink. The seed mash, an additional big starter, and fresh water is then mixed into this grain in large, glazed
earthenware pots up to 2 meters (6 ft 7 in) in diameter and height. The mixture is pounded on the sides of the pots.
Aging
Similar to the production of Japanese
sake,
saccharification and fermentation usually happen in the same mash concurrently, as the seed mash and starter act on the cooked rice. The mixture is then left to mature in earthenware jars for a length of time from several months to several decades before being bottled and sold.
Variations
Northern breweries often use three big starters, rather than an initial little starter. Large factories typically employ air blowers to cool the second batch of grain rather than using cold water or leaving it out to cool.
The brewery may also separate the
saccharification and fermentation of the grain, similar to
brewing. If this is desired, the seed mash is typically not used, since a main mash will never be produced. Instead, a mash of water, steamed glutinous rice, and other grains is
inoculated with rice that has already been cultivated with the mold Aspergillus oryzae or molds of the genus Rhizopus and certain strains of Lactobacillus. When mixed into the mash, the molds cultivate the mixture and convert the
starch in the grains into
sugar and
lactic acid. This sweet and slightly sour liquid is drained and reserved, while additional water (and sometimes also
malt) is added to the mixture. The process is repeated until the grains are exhausted. Yeast is then added to this liquid in order to convert the sugars in the liquid to
alcohol.
^Huang, Faxin; Cai, David Tiande; Nip, Wai-Kit (2006). Y. H. Hui (ed.).
173 Chinese Wines: Jiu. Introductions to Chinese culture. Vol. 4. Taylor & Francis. pp. 353–404.
ISBN9781420026337.
OCLC70288640. Retrieved 24 October 2017. {{
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