Tomaž Humar (February 18, 1969 –
c. November 10, 2009), nicknamed Gozdni Joža[1] (akin to
Hillbilly), was a Slovenian
mountaineer. A father of two, Humar lived in
Kamnik, Slovenia. He completed over 1500 ascents, and won a number of mountaineering and other awards, including the
Piolet d'Or in 1997 for his
Ama Dablam ascent.[2]
Climbing career
Humar became widely recognized in 1999 after his solo ascent of the south face of
Dhaulagiri,[3] considered one of the deadliest routes in the
Himalayas with a 40% fatality rate.[4]
During a solo attempt to climb
Nanga Parbat in 2005, Humar became trapped by avalanches and melting snow at an altitude of nearly 6000 meters.[5] After six days in a
snow cave he was rescued by a
Pakistan Army helicopter crew on August 10, 2005: Lieutenant Colonel Rashid Ulah Baig and Major Khalid Amir Rana.[6]
On October 28, 2007, Humar reached the Eastern summit of
Annapurna I, 8,091 metres (26,545 ft), via a route at the far eastern end of the South Face.[7][8]
On November 9, 2009, Humar, who was on a solo climb via the South Face of
Langtang Lirung (last climbed in 1995[9]), had an accident during the descent.[10] His only contact with the base camp staff via a
satellite phone was made on the day of the accident and he appeared to be in critical condition with leg, spine and rib injuries. He was stuck on the mountain at an elevation of approximately 6,300 meters (20,700 ft) for several days before his body was found on November 14, 2009, at an elevation of 5,600 meters (18,400 ft).[11]
Prominent expeditions
13. November 1994:
Ganesh V (6770 m), in
Ganesh Himal, new variation on SE face, with Stane Belak-Šrauf
6. May 1995:
Annapurna (8091 m), N face, French Route, solo climb (the only traditional expedition in which he participated)
2. November 1996:
Bobaye (6808 m), 1st ascent of the summit, NW face, new route "Golden Heart", solo climb
1. October 1997:
Lobuche East (6119 m), NE face, new route "Talking About Tsampa", with Janez Jeglič and
Carlos Carsolio
9-11. October 1997:
Pumori (7165 m), SE face attempt of new route up to 6300 m - then after participation in rescue action at N reached the summit by normal route), with Janez Jeglič, Marjan Kovač
31. October 1997:
Nuptse West top (NW, 7742 m), W face, new route, with
Janez Jeglič (who died during descent)
26. October 1998:
El Capitan (2307 m) (
Yosemite), route Reticent Wall A4-A5, 3rd solo climb (1st solo by non-American)
2. November 1999:
Dhaulagiri (8167 m), new route on S face (up to 8000 m, without reaching the top), solo climb
26. October 2002:
Shisha Pangma, (8046 m), with Maxut Zhumaiev, Denis Urubko, Aleksej Raspopov, Vassiliy Pivtsov
June 2003: Nanga Parbat (8125 m), his first attempt to climb
Rupal (S) Face, up to ca. 6000 m