Crafts of kutch

AJRAKH PRINTING:

Ajrakh is the name of a block printed cloth with deep crimson red and indigo blue background, having symmetrical patterns with white motifs sparkling around. Its history can be traced to the Indus valley civilization period which was around 2500 BC to 1500 BC. Ajrakh involves various stages of dyeing and resist printing using natural dyes. This kind of talent usually emerges from rural areas, where their only earning medium is hard work and their skills. ^[1]

BANDHANI PRINTING

Bandhani is another unique style of pattern which is decorated by plucking the fabric with fingernails which result in the formation of a figurative design. The work Bandhani is derives from the Sanskrit word ‘bandh’ which means to tie. Bandhani is known as Sungudi in Tamil Nadu. The earliest example of Bandhani was seen in the 6^th century paintings showing the life of Buddha on the wall of cave 1 at Ajanta. The final Bandhani products are also called as Khombi, Gahrchola, Patori, Chandrokhani, etc. ^[2]

BATIK PRINTING

Batik printing is the technique of anti was dying on the fabrics, originated from Indonesia. Batik is printed by the resist with a copper stamp called cap or drawing dots and lines with a tool called canting. The wax resist dyes and allows the artisans to colour it by soaking the cloth in colour, taking off the wax with boiling water, and continue to do it if many colours are used. ^[3]

A cloth is cleaned, washed and beaten with a metal ballet. Patterns are drawn with hot wax and then textured with paraffin or beenwax. Canting is the most common tool used to do wax printing on the fabric.  A tjanting is made from a small copper reservoir with a spout on a wooden handle. The reservoir holds the resist which flows through the spout, creating dots and lines as it moves. For larger patterns, a stiff brush may be used. Also, a copper block stamp called a cap, is used to cover large areas more efficiently. Now, when the cloth is dry, the wax is removed by boiling it. This process is repeated until all the wax is removed.

BELA PRINTING

Bela prints are bold and graphic. They have a vibrant palette of printed color on a plain white background. Diverse hues are achieved using natural and vegetable dyes. Rajasthan, is very famous for producing this type of mordant printed textile. Yet, Kutch has been a producer district of Bela-style cloth for as long as people can remember.  Long ago, Eastern Kutch produced many mordant resist fabrics commonly referred to as Patthar, which were used in dowry as gifts. ^[4]

Red and black colours are iconic colours of Bela printing, colors which were used for their color fastness. Bagru often features large scale and graphic prints, characterized by strong a strong mordant-printing technique wherein the printer applies vegetable dye directly to a piece of cloth with a hand wood block.

References

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