From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
French mountaineer and mountain guide
Patrick Gabarrou a.k.a. "Le Gab" (born 19 July 1951 in
Évreux ), is a French
mountaineer and
mountain guide who is credited with more than 300
first ascents , most of them in the
Mont Blanc massif .
He has been the president of the international environmental
NGO
Mountain Wilderness from 2006 to 2010. He is mostly an
ice climber , and is considered to be a pioneer of the modern wave of ice climbing.
[1]
He also opened routes in several other regions like Canada, Bolivia and Patagonia.
First ascents
Mountain routes
Boivin-Gabarrou on the north face of
Les Droites (with
Jean-Marc Boivin ), 1975
Supercouloir and Gabarrou-Albinoni on
Mont Blanc du Tacul
Hypercouloir on
Mont Blanc (with Pierre-Alain Steiner), 1982
Divine Providence on the
Grand Pilier d'Angle , 1984
Gabarrou-Silvy on the Aiguille Sans Nom, 1985
Directissime on the
Grandes Jorasses (with Hervé Bouvard), 1986
Aux amis disparus on the
Matterhorn (with Lionel Daudet)
Directissime de la Margerita on
Monte Rosa (with Christian Appertet), 1992
Alexis on Point Whymper of the Grandes Jorasses (with Benoît Robert), 1993
A Leï on the Grandes Jorasses (with Philippe Batoux and Benoît Robert), February 2003
Heidi on the Grandes Jorasses (with Philippe Batoux and Christophe Dumarest), 17–21 March 2005
Ciao Walter on Mont-Blanc (with Simon Deniel and Ben O'Connor-Croft), 2012
Brigite on the
Arête des Grands Montets (with his wife Franca et Philippe Lansard), 5 April 2013
[2]
René Croft between the Boivin-Gabarrou and the Barnoud-Marsigny on the north face of
Les Droites (with Ben O'Connor-Croft), 25–26 April 2013
[2]
Padre Pio, Une Echelle Vers le Ciel on the south face of
Matterhorn , 2015 (see Alpinist article)
[3]
Ice climbs
Cascade Notre Dame , 700 m, V, WI6 (with François Marsigny), 1984
Freneysie Pascale , 1984
Abominette , 700 m, IV, 5.8, WI3 (with
Christophe Profit and Sylviane Tavernier), 1984
Fantomastic , 700 m, V, WI6 (with François Marsigny), 1985
Patagonic , 700 m, M6, V+, WI6, A1 (with Christophe Dumarest), 2003
Skiing
First descent of the north face of the Col de Peuterey, with
Jean-Marc Boivin , 1977
Winner, French championship of
ski-mountaineering 1989, together with
Pierre d'Alboy
Sixth place,
Pierra Menta 1989, together with Pierre d'Alboy
Fourth, Pierra Menta 1991, together with
Lionel Mailly
First descent of the south face of the
Tour Noir , with Ben O’Connor-Croft, 16 April 2013
[2]
References
External links