American rock climber
Margo Hayes
2019 Sport & Speed Open Nationals
Nationality American Born (1998-02-11 ) February 11, 1998 (age 26)
[1]
Boulder, Colorado , U.S. Occupation Professional
rock climber Type of climber Highest grade Known for
First-ever female to climb at
9a+ (5.15a)
First-ever female to complete the "9a+ Trilogy"
Updated on June 29, 2022.
Margo Hayes (born February 11, 1998)
[1] is an American professional
rock climber from
Boulder, Colorado . In 2016, she won both the
competition bouldering and the
competition lead climbing events at the
IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in
Guangzhou (
China ). In 2017, she became the
first woman in history to climb a
9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and in 2019, became the first woman to complete the "9a+ Trilogy".
Early life
Originally a gymnast who trained at CATS Gymnastics in Boulder,
[2] Hayes began climbing at age 10.
[3] She joined Team ABC, a renowned youth climbing program in Boulder, where she was coached by
Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou .
[2] Hayes' grandfather, Dr. James Morrissey, led the first successful climb of the
Kangshung Face on
Mt. Everest and her father spent time climbing in
Yosemite Valley .
[2]
Climbing career
Competition climbing
As part of the US National Team, Hayes has competed in all three disciplines (
lead climbing ,
speed climbing , and
bouldering ) of the
International Federation of Sport Climbing competitions. In 2015, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in
Arco, Italy Hayes won silver both in bouldering and lead, behind
Janja Garnbret .
[4]
In 2016, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in
Guangzhou (
China ), she competed in the Juniors category, winning both the bouldering and lead events, placing 15th in speed, and placing first in the overall standings.
[5]
Hayes was one of four women to earn a spot on the 2019 U.S. Overall National Team as a first step to qualifying for the 2020 Olympics climbing competition.
[6]
Sport climbing
In 2016, Hayes won a
Golden Piton Award [
fr ] in the Sport Climbing category from
Climbing Magazine for successfully climbing 14 routes graded 5.14.
[7]
On February 26, 2017, Hayes became the
first-ever woman in history to climb a
9a+ (5.15a) graded route when she ascended
La Rambla , in Siurana,
Spain ).
[8] On September 24, 2017, she also completed the
third-ever female ascent of a
9a+ (5.15a) when she ascended
Realization/Biographie , in
Céüse , in
France .
[9] In March 2019, Hayes completed her third
9a+ (5.15a), climbing Papichulo at Oliana, Spain, and thus completing the trilogy of the "benchmark" and most notable
9a+ (5.15a) graded routes.
[10]
Personal life
In 2016 she won a prize in a scholastic art show.
[11]
On the 21st of March 2024, she released her first single, 'Karma', produced by Luis Calderon.
[12]
Rankings
[13]
2019 - USA Climbing Open Bouldering Championships - Bronze
2018 - IFSC Climbing World Championships Female Boulder - 10th
2017 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Combined - Bronze
2017 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Silver
2017 - IFSC Pan American Youth Championships Female Junior Boulder - Gold
2017 - IFSC Pan American Youth Championships Female Junior Lead - Silver
2016 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Gold
2016 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Boulder - Gold
2016 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Lead - Gold
2015 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Silver
2015 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Youth A Boulder - Silver
2015 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Youth A Lead - Silver
Notable ascents
9a+ (5.15a):
9a (5.14d):
Bad Girls Club – Wicked Cave (Rifle Mountain Park. (
USA ) – August 2016 – First female ascent.
[19]
8c+ (5.14c):
The Crew – Rifle Mountain Park (Colorado, (
USA ) – June 2016.
[20]
Filmography
Break on Through - 2017 film directed by
Matty Hong , documenting Hayes' ascent of La Rambla and Biographie , featured on
Reel Rock 12 .
[2]
See also
References
^
a
b Gates, Zoe (May 17, 2017).
"By the Numbers: Margo Hayes and the Road to 5.15" .
Climbing . On her 18th birthday in February 2016
^
a
b
c
d Salabert, Shawnte (March 12, 2020).
"The Extraordinary Effort of Margo Hayes" . Outside Online . Retrieved March 16, 2020 .
^
"Bio" . MARGO HAYES . Retrieved June 1, 2017 .
^
"Ashima Shiraishi wins two golds at world climbing championships" .
San Jose Mercury News . September 5, 2015.
^
"World Youth Climbing Championships: Bouldering brings second gold for Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes & Ashima Shiraishi" . Planet Mountain . November 14, 2016.
^
"Meet Team USA" . Rock and Ice . Retrieved March 16, 2020 .
^
"2016 Golden Pitons: Sport Climbing" . Climbing Magazine | Rock Climbing, Mountaineering, Bouldering, Ice Climbing . Retrieved May 31, 2017 .
^ Haas, Liz (February 27, 2017).
"Margo Hayes Climbs La Rambla, Becomes First Woman to Send 5.15a" .
Climbing .
^ Rock and Ice (ed.).
"Margo Hayes Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)" . Retrieved July 7, 2019 .
^
a
b
"Margo Hayes climbs Papichulo at Oliana, her third 9a+" . PlanetMountain.com . March 23, 2019. Retrieved January 23, 2022 .
^
"Olympic Hopefuls" . Rock and Ice . Retrieved March 16, 2020 .
^
"Instagram" . www.instagram.com . Retrieved March 21, 2024 .
^
"Athlete Profile: Margo Hayes" . IFSC.org . International federation of Sport climbing. Retrieved January 27, 2019 .
^ Rock and Ice (ed.).
"Margo Hayes Ticks Another 5.15 with Papichulo!" .
^ Fernandez, Issac (April 4, 2017).
"The 9a+ Trilogy, 6 climbers have climbed the 3 most representative routes" [es].
Desnivel (in Spanish). Retrieved July 18, 2023 .
^ Nicolas Mattuzzi (September 25, 2017).
"Incroyable! Margo Hayes enchaîne "Biographie" 9a+ et rentre de nouveau dans l'Histoire!" . planetgrimpe.com.
^
Margo Hayes Sends La Rambla (5.15a)! on rockandice.com
^
Historique! Margo Hayes, 18 ans, enchaîne « La Rambla », 9a+! on planetgrimpe.com
^
Margo Hayes, 18, Breaks the “Boys Club” of Bad Girls Club (5.14d)
Archived 2017-03-01 at the
Wayback Machine on rockandice.com
^
Margo Hayes, 18, Sends The Crew (5.14c) in Rifle on rockandice.com
External links