Andrzej Zawada (born Maria Andrzej Zawada; 16 July 1928 – 21 August 2000) was a Polish
mountaineer, pioneer of
winterHimalayism. Zawada was an organiser and leader in numerous high-mountains expeditions. Author of movies and photographs from expeditions, co-author of Alpinist books. Honorary member of the British
Alpine Club, French
Groupe de Haute Montagne and American
The Explorers Club.
In 1959 he was a leader to a first winter crossing through the whole main ridge of
Tatra Mountains, which took 19 days.
In 1971, as chief he led the Polish expedition to make the first ascent to the
Khunyang Chhish (7,852 m, 25,761 ft) in the
Karakoram. He also reached the summit.
With
Tadeusz Piotrowski he made the first winter ascent of
Noshaq (7,492 m, 24,580 ft) in the
Hindu Kush (13 February 1973). It was the world's first winter climb above 7,000 metres (23,000 ft).
On 25 December 1974, Zawada became the first man in the world to exceed a height of 8,000 metres (26,000 ft) in the winter, alongside
Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich, by reaching a height of 8,250 metres (27,070 ft) on
Lhotse.
In 1977 Zawada made the first crossing of the 1,600-metre (5,200 ft) north wall of
Koh-i Mandaras (6,631 m, 21,755 ft).
In February 1985
Maciej Berbeka and
Maciej Pawlikowski made the first winter ascent of
Cho Oyu. It is the only winter ascent on an eight-thousander using a new route. Zawada led the expedition.
On 31 December 1988
Krzysztof Wielicki made the first winter ascent of
Lhotse. Zawada led the expedition.
Books
Marcinek, Kazimierz; Zawada, Andrzej (1973). Ostatni atak na Kunyang Chhish (in Polish). Warsaw: Wydawnictwo Sport i Turystyka.
OCLC7233551.
Józef, Nyka (August 2000).
"Andrzej Zawada "Lider"". Miesięcznik Ludzi Gór "Góry i Alpinizm" (in Polish). Archived from
the original on 2007-09-27. Retrieved 2007-11-27.