Originating from the
Levant region of the
Arab world,[1] lahm bi ajeen or lahmacun is a popular dish in
Lebanon and
Syria.[4][11] In the Levant it is part of a series of food called
Manakish, flatbreads with toppings. It is also sometimes referred to as "Lebanese Pizza."[12] It is also very popular in
Armenia[13][5] and
Turkey.[13] It is sometimes described as "Armenian pizza",[14] or "Turkish pizza",[15] or similar names due to its shape and superficial similarity. However, unlike pizza, lahmacun is not usually prepared with cheese[13] and the crust is thinner.[16] In Lebanon, Syria, and Palestine it is also known as "sfiha" (
Arabic: صفيحة,
romanized: ṣafīḥa,
lit.'thin plate' or 'sheet').
Etymology and terminology
The name entered English from
Turkishlahmacun, pronounced lahmajun, and from
ArmenianԼահմաջո (lahmajo), both derived from
Arabicلحم بعجين (laḥm ʿajīn, laḥm bi-ʿajīn), meaning "meat with dough".[2][3][4]
History
Flatbreads in the Middle East have been cooked in tandoors and on metal frying pans such as the tava for thousands of years.[3] They have been used to wrap meat and other foods for convenience and portability. However, until the wider adoption in
medieval times of the large
stone ovens, flatbreads stuffed or topped with meat and other foods were not baked together, cooking the bread and the topping at the same time. A variety of such dishes, such as sfiha and manakish, became popular in countries formerly parts of the
Ottoman Empire, especially Turkey, Armenia, Lebanon and Syria. A thin flatbread, topped with spiced ground meat, became known as lahm b'ajin (meat with dough), shortened to lahmajin and similar names.[3][4]
According to Ayfer Bartu, lahmacun was not known in Istanbul until the mid-20th century.[17] Bartu says that before the dish became widespread in Turkey after the 1950s, it was found in Arab countries and the southern regions of Turkey, around
Urfa and
Gaziantep.[1]
Due to the hostile nature of the
relations between Armenia and Turkey, the opening of Armenian restaurants serving the food in
Russia was met by some protests.[5][20] In March 2020,
Kim Kardashian, an American socialite and media personality of Armenian heritage, posted a video on her Instagram saying "Who knows about lahmacun? This is our Armenian pizza. My dad would always put string cheese on it and then put it in the oven and get it really crispy." This sparked outrage among Turkish social media users, who lashed out at her for describing lahmacun as Armenian pizza.[21]
^"'Armenian Pizza' Is the Comfort Food You Didn't Know You Were Missing (Recipe)". Smithsonian Magazine. Retrieved 16 January 2020. No one knows for certain whether lahmacun's roots lie in Armenia, or elsewhere in the Middle East. "The race to find where these ancient foods originated is not fruitful territory," cautioned Naomi Duguid, author of Taste of Persia: A Cook's Travels Through Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Iran, and Kurdistan. After all, meat-enhanced flatbreads are ubiquitous throughout the region...
^Bartu, Ayfer Suna (1997). Reading the Past: The Politics of Cultural Heritage in Contemporary Istanbul. University of California, Berkeley. p. 149. We became a nation of lahmacun eaters. Fifty years ago no one in Istanbul knew what lahmacun was – or if we did, we called it pizza.
^
abMahir, Hasan (3 March 2008). Geziantep: Gaziantep gezi notları (in Turkish). p. 148.